SEASIDE SERENITY
12/18/2007 9:27:13 AM by Robert Edens
FISHING OASIS: The waters of Sanibel Island and Captiva are known to yield prime catches of a variety of fish that are native to the area. Morning fishing posts on the beach are a common sight.
If seashells and near-perfect shores are in your future, you might want to take a trip to Sanibel Island and Captiva for a healthy dose of both.
Photos courtesy of Visit Florida
The wide variety of shells that litter the beach crunch beneath a cruiser’s sandals as the low waves beat languidly against the shore, creating a gentle counterpoint that forms a symphony of relaxation not found on any Soothing Sounds CD. This is Sanibel Island and Captiva, host to some of the best waters for boating in the world as well as the quiet beaches that nature has blessed as the “Seashell Capital of North America,” notwithstanding an influx of top resorts.
These islands are much more than just an oasis of unspoiled nature, however. There are plenty of protected spots around the globe that can be positively lackluster. Instead, Sanibel and Captiva are a combination of small-island tropics and world-class elegance: Think frothy sea bubbles lapping against a hull while the soft pop of a cork from a limited edition Veuve Clicquot is heard on deck. Fill the glasses, set out the hors d’oeuvres in the stern cockpit and enjoy witty conversation while watching the spectacular sunsets that rival Mother Nature’s famous evening show in Key West.
SHORE HUNTING: Whether you’re looking for shells or for the pefect palm tree-shaded tikki hut, the shores of Sanibel and Captiva have something for everyone.
Boaters visiting Sanibel, Captiva and the surrounding Lee County environs will be pleased with the selection of more than 20 marinas ranging from fuel docks to overnight dockage and repair facilities. At the southern end of the island is the ever-popular Sanibel Marina, a state-of-the-art facility with a recently dredged inlet that leads to 80 slips that can handle yachts up to 120 feet, a convenient fuel dock, boat rentals, charter fishing and sightseeing cruises. Another popular option is the large waterfront resorts, such as the Sanibel Harbor Resort & Spa and the South Seas Island Resort, which offer on-site docking for guests.
The west coast of Florida loves watersports, as can be noted by the regular cruising, exploring, jetskiing, waterskiing, snorkeling and scuba diving found throughout the area. Though when it comes to watersports on this coast, angling heads the list. This isn’t fishing like anywhere else. Sportfishermen can easily travel 20 or 30 miles offshore in the Gulf of Mexico and yet find themselves in a mere 50 to 75 feet of water, something unheard of on the Atlantic Ocean side of the state. There are no natural coral reefs here, but man has worked with the environment to create some interesting artificial reefs that are great for fishing and diving. Even the most exacting fisherman will be satisfied with the selection of mammoth grouper. Or one can go inshore for tarpon, snook, redfish and sea trout. Offshore there are cobia, Spanish and king mackerel, tripletail, shark, permit, snapper and amberjack.
PIER STOP: The Pier at Lighthouse Beach is just one of the many attractions found in and around Sanibel and Captiva.
Not catching any fish is not a problem here. In fact, choosing a restaurant on Sanibel or Captiva can be very difficult as there are so many good options, especially when it comes to fresh seafood. The Thistle Lodge at the Casa Ybel Resort stands out from the pack by the sheer romance of the place, which is laid-out in small rooms on different levels that offer intimate views of the spectacular sunsets. Be sure to try the Crab Cake Martini. Trust us, it’s delicious despite the name.
At the opposite end of the dining spectrum is Gramma Dot’s at the Sanibel Marina. The hip, open-air dining room is filled with nautical memorabilia. The award-winning menu contains dining delights such as mesquite-grilled grouper with homemade potato chips. Shrimp fans will love McT’s Shrimp House, where the little guys are served up 20 different ways. The fish doesn’t get any fresher than at Timbers, which serves the day’s catch under cheerful umbrellas. RedFish BluFish is the new rage on Captiva with its innovative fish-noshes: compact, tapas-style, flavor-packed pieces.
In the shadow of the lighthouse at the eastern end of Sanibel Island is Old Town Sanibel. This historic functioning mini-village is a step back in time with rustic accommodations in the form of the Buttonwood and Seahorse Cottages as well as Brenner’s Tarpon Tale Inn. Dining venues range from the nautical Lighthouse Café to the Parrot Nest, which is as salty as it sounds.
The best of the nightlife scene can be found at Ellington’s Jazz Bar and Restaurant, which has a New York/Chicago feel. The Jacaranda Patio Lounge presents reggae, jazz and blues nightly. Locals often opt for Doc Fords — named after Randy Wayne White’s bestselling adventure hero…a rum bar. On Captiva, the Mucky Duck is an English pub, good for darts, conversation and lager. For something even more unique, check out the Crow’s Nest and its Monday night crab races and mellow live music.
Pack some more formal clothing in the cabin as arts and culture abound on the other side of the bridge in nearby Fort Myers, where there’s also plenty of docking opportunities. The downtown Arcade Theatre is home to the Florida Repertory Theater Company, and there’s always the Broadway Palm Dinner Theatre and its “sister,” the Off-Broadway Palm Theater. The Barbara B. Mann Performing Arts Hall houses the renowned Southwest Florida Symphony Orchestra, as well as rock bands, comedians, ballet performances and Broadway road shows. Kids will be thoroughly entertained at the Imaginarium, a museum dedicated to interactive learning about science.
Whatever you do, make sure to leave some space in your stateroom closet, as Sanibel is also known for its interesting shopping. Periwinkle Place is reminiscent of a Balinese longhouse with its open-air, interconnecting boardwalks. In keeping with the architectural theme, the shops offer quality casual resort wear and quirky gifts. The spa will come in handy if you opt to stay aboard your yacht instead of booking a room at a resort. In contrast, the Village makes one think of New England. The stores include galleries, clothing and jewelry venues. Downtown Captiva has a comprehensive general store that’s good for gossip and sightseeing tips, as well as some interesting art galleries and specialty shops that are worth a look.
| BEST STAYS
When traveling to the “Seashell Capital of North America,” Sanibel Island and Captiva, where you stay is almost as important as where you go seashell hunting. Here are a few of our favorite resorts in the area.
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Sanibel Harbor Resort & Spa
South Seas Plantation
Casa Ybel ResortShell seekers will be especially happy to be aboard a boat since some of the best shell “shopping” is found on the beaches of the out islands to the north of Captiva. The fact that these isles can be accessed only by boat means they are untouched in comparison to the more accessible area beaches. The islands feature a gentle, relatively protected surf that make them excellent for wading for the 250 variety of available shells or snorkeling the nearby rock reefs that are home to tropical fish, clever crabs, and yes, more shells. The out islands also provide the opportunity to watch the 230 types of birds found in the area. And don’t forget the wildlife that happens on land after it gets dark. For such a quiet chain of islands, there’s a lot going on here, so don’t wait to book your trip. You’ll be planning your next visit before the first one’s over.