DREAM ISLES
12/18/2007 9:11:37 AM by Clint Brownfield
BEAUTIFUL BAYS: If you’re looking for privacy in paradise and secluded spots to take in the sun, a trip to the Bay Islands of Honduras is in order.
All it takes is one look at any one of the 50-some Bay Islands of Honduras to understand why this island chain is recognized the world over for its vast array of water-bound adventures and everything that comes along with them.
Photos courtesy of Honduras Institute of Tourism
Hurricanes Dean and Felix have come and gone leaving behind virtually no harm to these beautiful islands in the Caribbean, where Columbus cruised through in 1502 and pirates once ruled. And for divers, it’s heaven on Earth. Some even say it’s the least expensive place on the planet to become a certified diver — at all levels. And they’re right.
Bob Sterner, world-renowned photojournalist, expert diver and editor of Northeast Dive News, who travels the world to find the best dive sites, says he will never forget his recent trip to the Bay Islands, including Roatan and Utila, among others. “Diving is easy and beautiful in the Bay Islands,” he says. “Lush reefs, shark sites and shipwrecks seemingly painted by Poseidon are close to shore and fairly shallow, which allows divers to stay underwater longer in this tropical warm-water paradise.”
Roatan
Roatan, the largest of the 50-some Bay Islands, is located about 35 miles off the coast of the mainland of Honduras and is a quick direct flight from Miami or Houston. At about 34 miles long and 2.5 miles wide at its widest point, it may sound small, but there’s an incredible amount of dramatic scenery on and around this spectacular island, made possible in no small measure because Roatan is actually an above-water section of a submerged mountain ridge forming part of the world’s second-largest barrier reef.
Romeo Silvestri, who owns the nautically-themed Casa Romeo’s Restaurant and Hotel (CasaRomeos.com) in addition to several other choice spots on Roatan, is ready to greet visitors the moment they arrive. “The Bay Islands are good for the economy of Honduras,” he says. “We take in money through tourism and then buy all of our provisions from the mainland. Virtually everything we need must be purchased and brought over to Roatan.”
On a recent trip, I enjoyed staying at his full-service resort, the Mayan Princess (MayanPrincess.com), on Roatan’s West End, where the beautifully appointed housekeeping suites feature full kitchens, air conditioning, cable TV and other welcomed amenities. There are also swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and a gorgeous sandy beach.
Although at this writing there are no major hotel chains represented on Roatan, this may soon change. It’s widely rumored that several well-known hotel groups are eyeing and vying for spots on the island.
Popular and interesting places to stay on Roatan include eco-friendly Anthony’s Key Resort (AnthonysKey.com), complete with its idyllic location and warm island hospitality. Here, among the many activities, guests and non-guests may participate in the resort’s dolphin program by swimming and snorkeling with these majestic and gentle sea creatures.
And further to the east, Paya Bay Resorts (PayaBay.com) offers access to amazing beaches with an array of water activities and wonderful dining. It’s also perhaps the only resort on the island that is offering clothing-optional opportunities for its guests.
KEY RESORT: Anthony’s Key Resort is a must-stay when in the Bay Islands. Group kayaking excursions (below) are just one of the scenic pastimes available at the resort.
Perhaps no trip to Roatan would be complete without a visit to the lush and entertaining Gumbalimba Park (GumbalimbaPark.com), where among other delights you will find “tame monkeys running free.” This is hot stuff. Our particular favorite was Buddy, a capucine monkey, who at just under one year of age was a regular sunflower-eating machine. He was very friendly, hopping from one guest’s shoulder to the next, as long as he got some sunflowers to crack and devour, seemingly endlessly. Soft as a kitten, Buddy has a great future as a superstar at Gumbalimba Park. Part botanical garden and part animal reserve, this place also offers a challenging zip-line course that allows daredevils of all ages to zip through the 18-station attraction, located under an amazing tree canopy.
Utila
Moving along, another Bay Island must-see is Utila, where the friendly vibe will mostly likely put a smile on your face for the remainder of your stay. It’s just that much fun. This can also be aided by an occasional sip of rum or a few bottles of the buzz-inducing local beer which are readily — and cheaply — available throughout the island.
Savvy twenty- to thirty-somethings throng to Utila from all over the world for the inexpensive places to stay and eat and to take advantage of the expert diving instructors who help pave the way to becoming a certified open-water diver. If you don’t have a particular instructor in mind, just start asking around when you arrive. These instructors and representatives from their schools will most likely greet you as you make your way off the ferry in downtown Utila, which has one main street.
The nights here are spent eating and partying at the numerous restaurants and bars that line the streets. Meals of fresh fish usually cost around $15 and it’s quite easy to find lodging for $15 per night, if you’re willing to share a room. This is one of the places where the U.S. dollar seems to be holding up. A beer, for example, can cost as little as 50 cents.
The most famous place to stay, eat and drink is undoubtedly the Jade Seahorse and its six amazing, individually designed Night Cabins. The creation of a former Los Angeles school system art teacher, virtually every surface at the resort is covered with owner Neil’s art. The Treetanic Cocktail Lounge, lodged in the upper branches of mango trees, is the perfect place to meet just about everybody who might be on Utila any given night. And that’s just the beginning. To start your magical tour, go to JadeSeahorse.com.
NATIVE PERFORMERS: Inhabitants of the small fishing village of Garifuna perform tribal beats in traditional garb for visitors throughout the day. Tourists who visit the village usually leave with bagfuls of man-made souvenirs.
La Ceiba & Hog Islands
To the south, on the mainland of Honduras, most visitors will find themselves in La Ceiba, the main water resort area of the country. Here ferries zip back and forth to Utila and Roatan, for those who don’t opt for flying around the islands.
La Ceiba is host to the eco-friendly Lodge at Pico Bonito, which is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, located in the buffer zone of the largest national park and rainforest in Honduras. This place is gorgeous and offers hiking up into the rainforest where you can discover magical waterfalls and marvel at the views and lush vegetation. If you should run into one of the allusive jaguars rumored to inhabit Central America, don’t try to pet it.
The resort’s gift shop is a good and fair-priced place to shop for local arts, crafts and staples such as coco powder and coffee. Here, you can buy a piece of Lenca Pottery, a pre-Columbian art form being preserved by the women of Honduras. It usually features bold and intricate black-and-white motifs.
La Ceiba is also a good jumping-off point to explore some of the smaller Bay Islands, such as Cayo Grande. At this Hog Island must-see, the information center educates visitors on local flora and fauna. Most likely you’ll have chartered a boat for the day and can spend hours cruising around the islands — some so small and inviting that you halfway expect to see Gilligan, The Skipper and Mary Ann greet you with a tray of cocktails. And, if you can swing it, do put the small island of Chachahuate on your itinerary. This island has only a few dozen Garifuna families who survive by fishing and are the descendants of Africans who somehow managed to escape slavery. Lunch here provides a great memory and your photos will definitely prove that you’ve been away from it all.
ISLAND STROLL: Throughout the Bay Islands, having a half-submerged island surrounded by crystal waters all to yourself is a common occurrence.
Perhaps the Bay Islands can be summed up best by Manuel Sandoval, whom we firmly believe will one day be president of Honduras, but is currently the coordinator of strategic projects and activities for the Honduras Institute of Tourism. He has this to say about the current state of tourism in the Bay Islands and what the near future has in store for visitors to the Islands: “The Bay Islands offer travelers the beauty of the Caribbean blended with the rich culture of Central America,” he says. “Whether you’re a scuba diver looking to explore the colorful barrier reef, a family eager to train dolphins, a couple wanting to relax on the beach or an adventurer in search of reasonable prices, this is the place for you.”
Sandoval adds that in coming years, the variety of offerings will greatly increase. New hotels and attractions are being planned and constructed and a new Carnival cruise port will open in 2009, bringing with it an estimated 500,000 visitors annually within five years. “But even with this increase,” says Sandoval, “the Bay Islands will remain a destination not plagued by crowds, offering everything one could want in a Caribbean retreat.” We couldn’t have said it any better.