Floating Islands
11/29/2006 12:05:34 PM by Clint Brownfield
On my recent trip to the Bristish Virgin Islands [BVI], I had the chance to meet 20 or so petty officers from the Royal Navy enjoying a liquid lunch at Myett’s on Tortola. They had recently cruised into town on their frigate, which was parked next to our hotel, the lovely Maria’s by the Sea, on the water in downtown Road Town, the capital.
The sailors were all either English, Irish, Scottish or Welsh and were bravely protecting the entire BVI group from worldwide evil. But after a few months on the frigate, it was easy for them to change their focus from world protection to the pretty girls. Smart! Their next port would be Antigua.
The afternoon was spent with the sailors cavorting in and around the waters along the beach in front of Myett’s. Some beer (OK, a lot of beer) was consumed, punctuated by an occasional tequila shot. A pick-up game of football, including a couple of frolicsome island dogs formed an active backdrop and somehow a few happy hours in paradise just slid by.
But then, as the sun began to set, a sound on the horizon was picked up — whack/whack, woosh/woosh — and without a word being exchanged, all the sailors collectively rose, lined the beach and pulled down their bathing suits in order to moon the offending helicopter as it circled “our” beach. After it circled the beach, it came back again, causing even more mooning.
This little vignette was just one of many that would make our recent stay in the BVI memorable, made possible by an organization festively named “Jewels of the BVI,” which is made up of restaurants, bars and lodging facilities owned by people who have lived in the BVI for years. Most of us tourists always want to go where the locals go, and this was the prime opportunity to do so. Locals own these places and roll out red carpets that will keep you smiling, giggling and laughing out loud for the duration of your stay.
A guy in our group, who claimed to be one of the most famous fishermen in the world, arranged for us to cruise over to the neighboring island of Anegada for some fishing — bonefishing to be exact. It was there that our group of seven fell into the capable hands of Kevin and Garfield Faulkner (284.495.9569), who guided us, and will guide you and yours, through the amazing waters around the island. I can’t describe the colors and visual experience…and I went to journalism school!
The only bonefish caught (a six-pounder) was reeled in by one of the pretty girls on our boat. I managed to catch a hideous, four-inch specimen called a lizard fish. Both were released. But what we saw cruising around Anegada from the Faulkners’ two flat boats included views of the third largest coral reef in the world.
This area also supplies the surrounding islands, and probably the entire world, with a steady supply of conch. Fritters anyone? In fact, little sub-islands are formed entirely from the discarded conch shells. We wanted to sneak some back but were afraid of being stopped at customs and sent to jail, forced to spend the rest of our lives not being able to return to the BVI.
Our daytrip to Anegada not only included bonefishing, but a tour that yielded a satisfying lunch at Cow Wreck Beach Bar & Grill, a piña colada at Sands Point and a stop at Pat’s Pottery, where I snagged an exquisite hand-painted bowl.
Only about 250 lucky people get to call Anagada home. Our island guide, Rondell, brought along his two-year old son, Nicholas. Approaching three now, Nicholas sat up front and enjoyed a cup of local sea grapes, which also make a nice wine.
Next, it was off to Virgin Gorda, where Laurence Rockefeller built Little Dix, one of the world’s first true luxury resorts, in 1964. It’s still there, going strong and looking good. However, our group was happy to check into another jewel of the BVI, called Guavaberry Spring Bay Vacation Homes, whose owner’s family has been on Virgin Gorda for around 100 years (Columbus cruised by in 1493). These individual villas on stilts offer views of the sea and also one of the most stunning private beaches you will ever encounter. And, it’s within spittin’ distance of the island’s biggest draw, The Baths. These rock formations are so intriguing that our group spent an hour or two climbing down, in and around these natural masterpieces — sunning and swimming on the nearby beaches in between. Then, like the good tourists we are, we scaled the stairs back up to the top and spent a couple of hours at the Mad Dog. Here, the bartendress, Edith, will whip up drinks so magical that it’s impossible not to forget all your troubles and woes.
The BVI features some 60 islands, big ones like Tortola and Virgin Gorda, and ones so small that you might just want to stop and hug them. Even Robert Louis Stevenson called one of them Treasure Island, a fitting name if there ever was one.