Inside IZTAPA
7/27/2006 5:33:12 PM by Scott S. Snay
If you haven’t discovered Guatemala’s big game paradise, it’s time to gather your angler buds and head over to Central American billfish heaven.
Photos by Jim Turner
In the international pantheon of big game fishing, Guatemala has developed a reputation as one of the world’s premier big game destinations. Anglers from all over the globe regularly travel to this mecca to tangle with billfish on all types of tackle — from ultra light line to fly tackle. With upwards of 60 to 70 (or more) shots at billfish per day during the height of season, it’s not hard to see why this quiet Central American country has earned its place as a must-go for serious anglers.
From Miami International Airport, it’s a two-hour flight to Guatemala City and from there, only a 90-minute cab ride to Puerto Quetzal, better known as Iztapa. With multiple flights per week, anglers can arrive on just about any day they choose. Merijo Attong of Miami-based Island Fishing Adventures says accommodations in Iztapa can run from quaint to lavish, with hotel suites and houses readily available. “Some of my clients prefer hotels for the nightlife, and some just want peace and quiet after a long day on the water to unwind,” she says.
FISHING 411
The bite in Guatemala is not far from Puerto Quetzel, with ideal currents that hold bait being only seven miles out. The cause for this outstanding fishing lies in the unique topography of Guatemala; the coast essentially forms a giant bay. West to east currents hit the Mexican coast, and are turned back, ricocheting off the coast of El Salvador. These currents form a natural eddy of nutrient-rich water, attracting huge schools of baitfish, which in turn attract spindle-beaked predators, as well as tuna and dolphin (dorado, not Flipper, though porpoise are a constant companion) in great numbers. Roosterfish can be found close to shore, and make an excellent target on light tackle.
Billfishing in Iztapa is a year-round phenomenon, and has the added benefit of a tremendous peak season that runs from November to June. Pacific sails tend to run a bit larger than their Atlantic cousins, and the average fish released runs 90 pounds, though fish weighing upwards of 140 pounds are not uncommon. Due to the highly volcanic nature of the area, Guatemala’s fishing ground occurs over a black sand bottom. Generally speaking, one would expect fishing of this caliber to occur near tremendous seamounts or extreme underwater canyons, such as Hawaii or Puerto Rico. But to find it in Guatemala? That’s almost too good to be true.
Jim Turner, whose crew recently set the world record for sailfish releases on fly in one day, recalls the monumental experience. “The boat we were on was being used to film a TV show with Tony Gonzalez of the Kansas City Chiefs. Gonzalez and his crew were getting twenty-plus fish per day, and going back to the dock early. The old record (on fly) was 27 fish in one day, with Captain Chris Sheeder. I had the chance to get out with Chris when the bite was red-hot. We had 30 fish released by 11 a.m., and finally pulled the teasers in at 4 p.m. to head home. I had 54 on fly myself, and the boat accounted for 57.”
Unbelievable numbers, but all documented. When one considers that there are only about twenty working boats at any one time fishing Guatemalan waters, it’s left to the imagination what kinds of numbers might be hit with more anglers and crews plying the waters. Anglers familiar with the bait-and-switch method will be right at home. At the core, fish are teased close to the boat with baits, which are then pulled away from a charging fish. The angler then places the fly in front of the sailfish, which then (hopefully) crushes the fly. Thanks to the almost exclusive use of circle hooks and limits on teasers (no dredges or underwater teasers are permitted in Guatemalan waters), the fishing is bound to remain impressive season after season.
THE AGENDA
Iztapa has very tropical weather, so plan on packing light. Shorts and tees or long-sleeved shirts on the boat, and light slacks or shorts in the evening should comprise a typical day’s ensemble. Daytime temperatures run in the mid to upper 80s, and at night the mercury dips to the upper 70s.
However, according to Attong, fishing isn’t the only thing to do in Guatemala. With volcanoes and Mayan ruins, among other historic points of interest, Guatemala is a country inviting to be explored. “With surfing and water sports right at Iztapa, I’ve sent a lot of clients down with their families; while the anglers fish, the rest of the family can take a short drive to the mountains and check out ruins that are thousands of years old,” she says.
As always, half the fun of a trip like this is the gastronomical opportunities. With daily catches of yellowfin tuna and dorado, fresh seafood cooked in the local style is a regular staple on the menu, along with fresh vegetables and locally baked fresh bread. Guatemala is fairly inexpensive, and there are plenty of opportunities to dine out if one chooses to explore the night life.
Trips to Guatemala are quite reasonable for the experience, and a four-night, three-day fishing trip runs about $2,175 per person, based on four anglers. This price doesn’t include airfare, which typically runs about less than $1,000 per person roundtrip. Also not included are departure taxes, personal expenses, and gratuities for the crew. Most boats have up-to-date tackle, but should you choose to pack a fly rod, plan on taking a 14- or 16-weight rod. Tube flies for sailfish work best, such as those tied by Cam Ziegler, though traditional sailfish patterns also work well. While not every trip can guarantee a record, Iztapa is one of the few places to guarantee enough fish for everyone.