Got a hankerin’ for lobster? Keys’ Top 10 waterfront restaurants
5/25/2004 3:09:49 PM by Kelly Braden and Doug Kelly
As if relishing the fresh, salt air wasn’t enough while overlooking a
bonefish-infested flat of the Florida Keys, the smell of Bloomin’
Onions and Shrimp On The Barbie wafting over the open deck simply
over-rode our senses. Then again, the luscious mixture of good eats and
gorgeous views at waterfront restaurants like the Outback Steakhouse in
Islamorada is a powerful magnet for tourists and locals alike.
But, more on our Outback experience in a moment. When we embarked upon
the terrible assignment of choosing the top dining establishments in
the Keys (hey, someone’s gotta do the dirty work!), we started the
chew-fest in Key West looking like regular tourists. By the time we
ended up in Key Largo a week hence, however, we had come to resemble a
couple of pregnant manatees.
But, no matter. We present two reviews of our dining saga plus our top
10 choices and a listing of the seemingly endless waterfront
restaurants that all seem worthy of a visit. Back to Outback. You can
eat inside, but why? We headed for the wooden deck with the umbrella
tables, savored iced teas while observing fishing guides maneuvering
their skiffs and anglers casting flies, and witnessed something seldom
seen: an osprey flying by with a small bonefish in its talons.
We started off with Lobster Crab Cakes and Gold Coast Coconut Shrimp as
appetizers – hey, we’re not timid – then enjoyed entrée selections of
the Drover’s Platter – a hearty plate of yummy ribsand-chicken – and
the oh-so-tender sevenounce Victoria’s Filet. Most outstanding were the
crab cakes, which featured lobster and lump crabmeat topped with
lightly seasoned fresh tomato and basil. They tasted so heavenly we had
to stifle the urge to knee-walk to the kitchen and bow to the chef
while repeating, “We’re not worthy, we’re not worthy.” All this while
sitting in our shaded perch, smelling, hearing and tasting all that the
ocean and food wanted to give us. And, did we pass up sharing a
Chocolate Thunder From Down Under dessert? Yeah, right.
Actually, let’s rewind the journey. Our dining saga actually commenced
at Flagler’s in the Casa Marina Resort in Key West. It provides seating
on an outdoor veranda with a view of the ocean by day and a
sophisticated indoor dining room when the stars twinkle. We hit
Flagler’s for dinner and found an elegant candle-lit atmosphere
complete with fresh Birds-ofParadise floral arrangements and a
classical pianist.
Stone crabs with mango and mustard sauce got things off to a yummy
start and didn’t let up with a cup of spicy Smoked Conch Chowder. And,
while rabbit food usually isn’t all that remarkable, the Wild Arugula
Salad with dried cranberries simply grabbed the spotlight – it was
fabulous.
Entrees didn’t disappoint either. The Surf and Turf Special consisted
of half a lobster tail, a juicy six-ounce steak filet, a jumbo shrimp
and an oversize scallop – gads, a seafood platter extraordinaire. And,
when the charred black grouper arrived immersed in a pool of cilantro
butter-infused oil, we almost sucked the air out of the room with
anticipation. The grouper accompaniments included lobster home fries
(yes, lobster) and asparagus in an orange beurre blanc reduction
coating that tasted oh-so-good. And, just so as not to insult the chef,
we were talked into a chunk of Chocolate Chambord Cake garnished with
fresh raspberries, Chantilly cream and mint, and a wedge cheesecake
topped with fresh strawberry cream. We’d sooner slap our mommas' faces
before refusing a second visit. The next day we waddled to the Sun Sun
Café, the Casa Marina’s beachfront luncheonette. Fearing a stiff wind
might blow us off our feet, we scoffed down a half-pound of peel and
eat shrimp and the Smokin' Joe's Mahi Fish Dip. This was followed by a
memorable Caribbean Lobster and Grilled Pineapple Salad with pineapple
and papaya dressing – the best lobster salad we’d ever tasted. The
other entrée of a Mel's Mahi Mahi Sandwich made the lunch a total
seafood munch party. And, eyeing a passing bikini or two didn’t make
the scenery any less tantalizing. Our weeklong gastric odyssey resulted
in much more than busted belts for the two of us. We came away not only
heavy figuratively, but also literally with a heavy dose of respect for
the high quality of gourmet cooking that most might not expect in this
fabulous third-world nation called the Florida Keys.