G'day Mate!
5/22/2006 6:30:56 PM by Scott S. Snay
It was my upteenth time around the world and this time I landed in Cairns (pronounced cans), 18 hours after I popped my first sleep aid. I took United, but Qantas, American and Iberia also regularly service the city with multiple daily flights.
My first night was spent in Shangri La, a favorite among international travelers (me included) for its outstanding service and marina view rooms. Merijo Attong of Miami-based Island Fishing Adventures, the organizer of my trip, says that after almost a day in travel, most clients take a day to recuperate before setting out to fish. “Non-stop flights are exhausting, and you’re going to need all your energy if you plan on tangling with giant marlin,” she says. Merijo, I couldn’t agree more.
After a brief overnight, it’s a short ride to my appointed mothership, Boss , a beautifully appointed 78-footer that can handle up to 10 guests with two sport fishing convertibles in attendance. With rosewood accents and a 14-seat dining room (not to mention a bar stocked with Australian beer and wine, plus international label liquor), this is truly the best way to go after the Great Barriers’ many granders.
The season for black marlin on the Great Barrier runs August through December. The difference between only two weeks marks the difference between juvenile and the really big spawning fish, in excess of 1,000 pounds. This time of year also offers an ideal opportunity for anglers to tangle with blacks on fly gear. Using the bait-and-switch method, juvenile blacks can be teased up and caught using 14- to 16 - weight fly tackle. Tube flies such as those tied by Bill Howe work well, including Bill’s FPF Hot Pink-Black Mackerel, recently used to set the IGFA World Record for black marlin (101 kg).
These juveniles also offer present anglers the chance to catch blacks on very light line, such as 6- or 8-pound tackle. Using light conventional gear, such as Biscayne Rod’s 2002 Graphite Series or 1002 Fiberglass Series rods in 6-or 8-pound are ideal, mated to a small Accurate or Alutecnos reel. Don’t be fooled by the light tackle, either. The current IGFA world record for 8-pound line is 462 pounds, as much a testament to a sharp captain and crew as superior angling skills.
When hunting really big blacks on the Great Barrier Reef, a typical day begins innocuously enough. A little high-speed trolling for small yellowfin tuna or bonitos to prepare baits for the day. Australian captains typically troll artificials, such as pakulas, soft heads, or the latest creation by Hawaiian legend Joe Yee in order to tease big fish to the surface, then pitch a frisky tuna or bonito to the fish. As an aside, if the marlin don’t eat the yellowfin, they make an excellent sashimi appetizer or tuna tataki at the end of the day.
Late September brings out the mythical colossus of the place, the grander. Picture Santiago’s battle in the Hemmingway classic
The Old Man and the Sea
. The battle against such a leviathan is no different now than it was in the classic for its intensity.
Only now, anglers have traded the old wooden skiff for a modern sport fishing boat, and the hand line for Penn 130 two-speed reels. Nevertheless, caveat emptor. Fish of this size (1,000 pounds or greater) are a serious undertaking. It’s not unheard of to spend six to eight hours battling a fish of this size, and the unofficial record is 33 hours, with the marlin finally breaking off. How’s that for a marathon story of heartbreak?
But black marlins aren’t the only catches on the Reef: thicklips, macs and cods are regulars on the Reef scene, along with blacks, blue and striped marlin, with outstanding catches made each year for the “Big Three.” Pound for pound, “stripeys” are generally considered the gamiest of all, and of course the blue is every bit as sought-after as its cousin the black. Cairns is fairly unique due to the fact that all three can be sought in one day, a bonus if one is hunting the grandest of all billfish exploits — capturing all nine billfish species in one calendar year.
After returning to the mothership, concluding each day’s fishing, I relaxed in my stateroom before dinner. The dinner theme is varied, and the chef is experienced in cooking for a range of themes, including Chinese, Italian, and Continental- American, as well as an array of Australian favorites and of course, sea food. Breakfast is also served aboard the mothership, and lunches are made fresh each day and sent off with anglers on their fish boats. With limits set at three per boat, anglers not only get multiple shots at really big fish, they also receive excellent individual treatment by the crews.
It must be noted one last time that chasing an Australian grander is no small feat, but for those with the mettle to dare, it’s a fantastic way to make a “g’day” a great day.
Photos courtesy of Island Fishing Adventures
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quicksplash When traveling to Australia, be sure to exchange American currency for the Australian dollar. The rates don’t fluctuate all that much, and are generally around 1.5 to 1. Check before you travel, and remember that prices quoted are based on Australian dollars, or AUD. A room at the Shangri La in Cairns runs 280 AUD per night, and limo service to the mothership runs 30 AUD. Accommodations aboard the mothership, including the daily fishing, is $5,500 per day (U.S.). “Some of my clients prefer to stay in Cairns for their adventure, as the mothership can get lively at night,” says Merijo Attong of Island Fishing Adventures. “If the client chooses to stay in town and run to the fishing grounds, daily charters are $3,500 per day, not including tips for the crew.” |