Hemingway’s Island in the Stream: Bimini
4/20/2006 5:24:06 PM by Tony Albelo
“Oh, God, if I can catch this fish.” – Islands in the Stream, Ernest Hemingway
Whether you are sitting on a dock overlooking the picturesque Bimini Bay or sipping “Bahama Mamas”
at the End of the World Bar or snorkeling over the legendary Atlantis Road it is easy to imagine how people instantly fall in love with this tiny island retreat. But for many, Bimini’s rich and colorful history has yet to be discovered.
Bimini is the smallest of the 700 Bahamian islands but, arguably one of the best. Just 50 miles from the coast of Miami, Bimini is a destination for many saltwater anglers who crave the perfect catch. In fact, the tiny island set often goes by the alias “The Big Game Fishing Capital of the World.”
With it’s checkered past of pirates and rum running, Bimini offers a rich culture and mystical tales. However, a full description of Bimini’s history could not be complete without the inclusion of the influence on the island (and vice versa) by one of America’s favorite novelists, Ernest Hemingway. Author of the Nobel Prize winning novella, Old Man and the Sea (a story cherished by many die-hard anglers), Hemingway is known for his terse literary style and influence on 20th century fictional writing. He has become a cherished character in the Bimini story.
Known to few outside the island, Bimini has a fantastical side great for story telling. The island
was believed to be home of the “Fountain of Youth” by the famed explorer Ponce de Leon. Determined, he came to the island in search for the fountain, but with no avail. The fountain, for those who don’t know, was said to bring back youth to the elderly who drank or bathed in its waters. In addition, the lost city of Atlantis, first written about by Plato in 300 BC, has, in recent history, been believed to lie in the shallow waters of Bimini’s North Island.
This speculation began with the findings of the “Bimini Road,” an arrangement of hundreds of eight-foot-square and two-feet-thick flat stones lying in a one-half-mile-long U shape. It is believed that the stones were placed there
when the sea level in the Bahamas was about 30 feet lower 8,000 years ago and that the road fits neatly into a Planetary Grid containing other wonders such as the Great Pyramid and Stonehenge. However, a visitor to the island is free to develop their own theory about the great stones (each weighing in at about 10 tons) by taking a slow snorkel around the formation.
The end of the slave trade in 1834 gave rise to a sort of “Jack of All Trades” Bahamian economy. During the American Civil War, the islands became an important port for gun runners and cotton traders. Between 1835 and 1919, shipwrecking (salvaging goods from shipwrecks) became the prime occupation for much of the Bimini population. During the era of Prohibition, Bimini became a hub for running liquor into the United States, an ideal spot due to it’s proximity to Florida. Then in 1920, Bimini became noted for its remarkable big game fishing.
At
first, the equipment and facilities needed for the visiting fishermen were not available. But this was destined to change. The world was astounded when in 1933, a 502-pound blue marlin was landed off of Bimini’s coast and the tiny island’s reputation for big game fishing was set. Believing strongly that Bimini would
come to be a center for sport fishing, the Duncombe family built the island’s beloved “Compleat Angler” hotel that same year. Fishing greats from around the world traveled to Bimini to share in the action and often stayed at the hotel. Ernest Hemingway was among these fishermen. Much of his time spent on the island was spent resting in the warmth and serenity of the hotel. Accounts of his fishing adventures can be revealed in several of his novels. For instance, his novel, Islands in the Stream, describes in exciting, rich detail the adventure and emotion of a young boy fighting his first, yet giant, swordfish off the island of Bimini. In fact, much of the first section of the book, which is set in Bimini, seemingly describes places on the islands that Hemingway had visited and the locals he had met. In 1993, Hemingway was inducted into Bimini’s Fishing Hall of Fame.
Hemingway was very involved with the establishment of the International Game Fish Association (IGFA) by participating in the original construction of the rules that guide sportfishing
today. The Association has a strong presence in game fishing with standardized rules and conservation regulations. Hemingway served as vice-president of the organization until his suicide in 1961.
Hemingway is also credited with bringing boxing to Bimini. He was a great boxer and every Sunday would box with his friend Ermie Butler. Hemingway was up for any man’s challenge. Island locals recount times that they would run up to the Compleat Angler to let Hemingway know someone was down at the docks and ready for a fight. It if was a fight they wanted, it was a fight they got; Hemingway was always ready. In 1935, Hemingway won his first fishing competition in Bimini. The win displeased many so he offered $200 to any man who could stay in the boxing ring with him for a full four rounds. Hemingway kept his $200 dollars that day. Since Hemingway’s time, Bimini born boxers Yama Bahama and Gomeo Brennan came to fight professionally around the world. Brennan had competed against such boxing greats as Reubin “Hurricane” Carter, Wilbert “Skeeter” McClure and Jose Torres.
Bimini is proud of the time Hemingway spent on the island and the experiences that he seemed to reflect upon in his books. In 1995, the Bimini Historical Society and Bimini Museum sponsored the Nick Adams Convocation, a gathering of the world’s top Hemingway scholars. The event marked the 60th anniversary of Hemingway’s first visit to the island in 1935 and was held at the Compleat Angler. Visitors were able to wander through the Hemingway Museum and examine their abundant collection of photographs. Sadly, the Compleat Angler was destroyed by fire early in 2006, after more than 70 years of hospitality.
The serenity and adventure of Bimini has been enjoyed by locals and visitors for centuries. The island holds something unique and interesting for every individual. For Ernest Hemingway it was a place to fish, box and gain inspiration for his writings. For others, only a visit to the island can decide.
| A MESSAGE FROM THE |
Minister of Tourism
Hon. Obie H. Wilchcombe, M.P.Minister of Tourism
It's a pleasure to welcome you to The Islands Of The Bahamas.
It is no surprise that The Bahamas is one of the most unique jewels in the Caribbean. With an archipelago of 700 islands to choose from, should you decide to explore our waters as an adventurer, boating enthusiast, free spirited sailor or yachtsman, you will find treasures beyond your imagination that will captivate you enough to continue returning over and over again.
The convenience of The Bahamas’ location being 50 miles off the coast of South Florida makes the journey accessible to many visitors.
In our research of visitors who make the journey by boat, the claim about the ease of the crossing between South Florida and Bimini seems to be the most popular. The reason being Bimini is only 45 miles east of Miami, Florida. You can leave port in the South Florida area and arrive in approximately two hours.
The Bahamas government is extremely proud of its partnership with Wave Magazine to help promote, educate and publicize information on activities in The Bahamas, the ease of making the crossing to Bimini and strong guidance in the creation of what will be one of The Bahamas’ trade mark events called Bimini’s Hemingway Festival (Aug. 1 - 6th).
As you continue to explore the islands of The Bahamas with many different islands to choose from, allow The Bahamas to be your home away from home. We are certain that your adventures in our islands will be most memorable and that you will soon agree that yachting and boating is most certainly better in The Islands Of The Bahamas.
Don’t forget to visit The Bimini Museum during your stay. For a tour of old Alice Town, contact Ashley Saunders at ashleysaunders2@yahoo.com
